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Description of the Business and Summary of Significant Accounting Policies and Practices (Policies)
12 Months Ended
Jan. 30, 2021
Organization, Consolidation and Presentation of Financial Statements [Abstract]  
Reclassifications
Reclassifications
The Company has made certain reclassifications to prior period amounts to conform to the current period presentation within the accompanying notes to the consolidated financial statements.
Fiscal Year
Fiscal Year
The Company operates on a 52-week fiscal year calendar, which ends on the Saturday nearest to January 31 of each year. All references herein to “fiscal 2021,” “fiscal 2020” and “fiscal 2019” represent the results of the 52-week fiscal years ended January 30, 2021, February 1, 2020 and February 2, 2019. References to “fiscal 2022” represent the 52-week fiscal year ending January 29, 2022.
Principles of Consolidation
Principles of Consolidation
The consolidated financial statements include the accounts of Guess?, Inc., its wholly-owned direct and indirect subsidiaries and its non-wholly-owned subsidiaries and joint ventures in which the Company has a controlling financial interest and is determined to be the primary beneficiary. Accordingly, all references herein to “Guess?, Inc.” include the consolidated results of the Company, its wholly-owned subsidiaries and its joint ventures. All intercompany accounts and transactions are eliminated during the consolidation process.
Use of Estimates
Use of Estimates
The preparation of the financial statements in conformity with accounting principles generally accepted in the U.S. requires management to make estimates and assumptions that affect the amounts reported in the financial statements and disclosed in the accompanying notes. Significant areas requiring the use of management estimates relate to the allowances for doubtful accounts, sales return and markdown allowances, gift card and loyalty accruals, valuation of inventories, share-based compensation, recoverability of deferred taxes, unrecognized tax benefits, the useful life of assets for depreciation and amortization, evaluation of asset impairment (including goodwill and long-lived assets, such as property and equipment and operating lease right-of-use (“ROU”) assets), pension obligations, workers’ compensation and medical self-insurance expense and accruals, litigation reserves and restructuring expense and accruals. Actual results could differ from those estimates. Revisions in estimates could materially impact the results of operations and financial position.
As discussed further below, the coronavirus (or “COVID-19”) pandemic has materially impacted the Company’s results during the fiscal year ended January 30, 2021. The Company’s operations could continue to be impacted in ways the Company is not able to predict today due to the evolving situation. While the Company believes it has made reasonable accounting estimates based on the facts and circumstances that were available as of the reporting date, to the extent there are differences between these estimates and actual results, the Company’s results of operations and financial position could be materially impacted.
COVID-19 Business Update
COVID-19 Business Update
The COVID-19 pandemic, which is ongoing and dynamic in nature, has had and is continuing to have a material impact on the Company’s financial performance. Since the start of the pandemic, the Company has experienced various temporary retail store closures in key regions globally, including the closure of a significant
majority of its stores during the first quarter of fiscal 2021. During the second quarter of fiscal 2021, the Company gradually reopened most of its global fleet of stores. Toward the end of the third quarter of fiscal 2021, the Company started to incur a new round of government-mandated temporary store closures mostly in Europe. As of January 30, 2021 the majority of closed stores were located primarily in Europe and Canada. The Company will continue to reopen stores (and/or close again, if appropriate) as governmental guidelines and local conditions permit or require, taking an informed, measured approach based on numerous factors. The Company’s e-commerce sites have remained open in all regions throughout the pandemic. In addition to the impact of store closures, retail stores that are open have and continue to experience significant reductions in traffic and revenue. Many of the Company’s wholesale and licensing partners have also substantially reduced their operations. The Company has brought back furloughed store associates and support staff as stores reopen. The extent and duration of the global pandemic remains uncertain and may continue to impact consumer purchasing activity in the foreseeable future.
During fiscal 2021, in addition to the negative impact from lower net revenue, the Company’s operating results reflected asset impairment charges as well as additional inventory valuation reserves and higher allowances for markdowns and doubtful accounts due to the ongoing effects of the COVID-19 pandemic. These charges were partially offset by lower selling, general and administrative (“SG&A”) expenses driven primarily by expense savings, both one-time, such as furloughs and temporary salary reductions, and permanent, such as headcount reductions and lower discretionary spending. In addition, the Company benefited from various government assistance programs related primarily to the recovery of employee payroll costs as well as certain favorable tax treatments.
During fiscal 2021, the Company implemented a number of measures to help mitigate the operating and financial impact of the pandemic, including: (i) furloughing its U.S. and Canada store associates and significant portions of its U.S. and Canada corporate and distribution center associates and permanently reducing U.S. corporate headcount; (ii) implementing temporary tiered salary reductions for management level corporate employees, including its executive officers; (iii) deferring annual merit increases; (iv) executing substantial reductions in expenses, store occupancy costs, capital expenditures and overall costs, including through reduced inventory purchases; (v) working globally with country management teams to maximize the Company’s participation in all eligible government or other initiatives available to businesses or employees impacted by the COVID-19 pandemic; (vi) drawing down on certain credit facilities and entering into certain term loans to ensure financial flexibility and maintain maximum liquidity; (vii) engaging with landlords to negotiate rent deferrals or other rent concessions; (viii) working with vendors to extend payment terms; and (ix) postponing its decision related to the payment of its quarterly cash dividend.
During the second quarter of fiscal 2021, as the situation began to stabilize, the Company repaid a significant portion of its previously drawn down credit facilities, continued to bring back furloughed employees, eliminated the temporary tiered salary reductions and invested in share repurchases to return value to its shareholders. The Company also announced that it would resume paying its quarterly cash dividend beginning in the third quarter of fiscal 2021, but decided to not declare any cash dividends for the first and second quarters of fiscal 2021.
In response to the COVID-19 pandemic, governments in various jurisdictions have implemented relief programs to provide assistance in the form of wage subsidies and tax related payment deferrals (related to payroll, income, sales and other taxes). The Company is leveraging these relief initiatives where able to help mitigate expenses and provide additional liquidity. An example of such an economic relief program is the Coronavirus Aid, Relief, and Economic Security (“CARES”) Act, which was enacted by the U.S. government in March 2020. The provisions of the CARES Act include the deferral of the employer portion of social security taxes, creation of refundable employee retention tax credits, modification of net operating loss carryback periods, relaxation of the net interest deduction limitations and technical amendment for qualified improvement property deduction.
In light of store closures and reduced traffic in stores, the Company has taken certain actions with respect to certain of its existing leases, including engaging with landlords to discuss rent deferrals as well as other rent concessions. The Company has at times suspended rental payments and/or paid reduced rental amounts with respect to its retail stores that were closed or were experiencing drastically reduced customer traffic as a result of the COVID-19 pandemic. We have successfully negotiated with several landlords, including some of our larger
landlords and have received rent abatement benefits. The Company continues to engage in discussions with additional affected landlords in an effort to achieve appropriate rent relief and other lease concessions and, in some cases, to terminate existing leases. Consistent with updated guidance from the Financial Accounting Standards Board (“FASB”) in April 2020, the Company has elected to treat any such agreed-upon payment deferrals related to the COVID-19 pandemic as if there were no modifications to the lease contract and has accrued such amounts within the current portion of operating lease liabilities in the Company’s consolidated balance sheet. The Company has elected to treat other rent concessions which result in reduced lease payments as variable lease payments if the concessions that are provided are for a period of generally less than 12 months. For any rent concessions which reduce the lease payments for a period of generally more than 12 months or change the payment terms from minimum rental amounts to amounts based on a percentage of sales volume for the remainder of the lease term, the Company has elected to treat such changes as lease modifications under the current lease guidance.
Business Segment Reporting
Business Segment Reporting
Where applicable, the Company reports information about business segments and related disclosures about products and services, geographic areas and major customers. The Company’s businesses are grouped into five reportable segments for management and internal financial reporting purposes: Americas Retail, Americas Wholesale, Europe, Asia and Licensing. The Company’s Americas Retail, Americas Wholesale, Europe and Licensing reportable segments are the same as their respective operating segments. Certain components of the Company’s Asia reportable segment are separate operating segments based on regions, which have been aggregated into the Asia reportable segment for disclosure purposes. Management evaluates segment performance based primarily on revenues and earnings (loss) from operations before corporate performance-based compensation costs, asset impairment charges, net gains (losses) from lease modifications, restructuring charges and certain non-recurring credits (charges), if any. The Company believes this segment reporting reflects how its business segments are managed and how each segment’s performance is evaluated by the Company’s chief operating decision maker to assess performance and make resource allocation decisions. The Americas Retail segment includes the Company’s retail and e-commerce operations in the Americas. The Americas Wholesale segment includes the Company’s wholesale operations in the Americas. The Europe segment includes the Company’s retail, e-commerce and wholesale operations in Europe and the Middle East. The Asia segment includes the Company’s retail, e-commerce and wholesale operations in Asia and the Pacific. The Licensing segment includes the worldwide licensing operations of the Company. The business segment operating results exclude corporate overhead costs, which consist of shared costs of the organization, asset impairment charges, net gains (losses) on lease modifications, restructuring charges and certain non-recurring credits (charges), if any. Corporate overhead costs are presented separately and generally include, among other things, the following unallocated corporate costs: accounting and finance, executive compensation, corporate performance-based compensation, facilities, global advertising and marketing, human resources, information technology and legal. Information regarding these segments is summarized in Note 18.
Revenue Recognition
Revenue Recognition
Products Transferred at a Point in Time
The Company recognizes the majority of its revenue from its direct-to-consumer (brick-and-mortar retail stores and concessions as well as e-commerce) and wholesale distribution channels at a point in time when it satisfies a performance obligation and transfers control of the product to the respective customer. For the Company’s brick-and-mortar retail stores and concessions, revenue is typically recognized at the point of sale and includes estimates of variable consideration such as allowances for sales returns and loyalty award obligations, where applicable. Revenue generated from the Company’s e-commerce sites is recognized when merchandise is transferred to a common carrier. Revenue generated from the Company’s wholesale distribution channel is recognized when control transfers to the customer, which generally occurs upon shipment. The amount of revenue that is recognized is based on the transaction price, which represents the invoiced amount and includes estimates of variable consideration such as allowances for sales returns and markdowns, where applicable. The amount of variable consideration included in the transaction price may be constrained and is included only to the extent that
it is probable that a significant reversal in the amount of the cumulative revenue recognized under the contract will not occur in a future period.
The Company accepts payments at its brick-and-mortar retail locations and its e-commerce sites in the form of cash, credit cards, gift cards and loyalty points, where applicable. Payment terms, typically less than one year, are offered to the Company’s wholesale customers and do not include a significant financing component. The Company extends credit to wholesale customers based upon an evaluation of the customer’s financial condition and credit history and generally requires no collateral but does obtain credit insurance when considered appropriate. As of January 30, 2021, approximately 49% of the Company’s total net trade accounts receivable and 61% of its European net trade receivables were subject to credit insurance coverage, certain bank guarantees or letters of credit for collection purposes. The Company’s credit insurance coverage contains certain terms and conditions specifying deductibles and annual claim limits. During fiscal 2021, the Company adopted authoritative guidance related to the measurement of credit losses on financial instruments. This guidance replaces the “as incurred” loss model with an “expected loss” model which requires the recognition of an allowance for credit losses expected to be incurred over an asset’s lifetime. The adoption of this guidance did not have a material impact on the Company’s allowance for doubtful accounts. The Company maintains allowances for doubtful accounts for estimated losses that result from the inability of its wholesale customers to make their required payments. The Company bases its allowances on analysis of the aging of accounts receivable at the date of the financial statements, assessments of historical and current collection trends, an evaluation of the impact of current economic conditions and whether the Company has obtained credit insurance or other guarantees which are not considered freestanding against the related account receivable balances. Management performs regular evaluations concerning the ability of its customers to satisfy their obligations and records a provision for doubtful accounts based on these evaluations. The Company’s credit losses for the periods presented were not significant compared to sales and did not significantly exceed management’s estimates. Refer to Note 3 for further information regarding the Company’s allowance for doubtful accounts.
Shipping and handling costs associated with outbound freight incurred to transfer a product to a customer are accounted for as fulfillment costs and are included in SG&A expenses. Sales and usage-based taxes collected from customers and remitted directly to governmental authorities are excluded from net revenues.
The Company does not have significant contract balances related to its direct-to-consumer or wholesale distribution channels other than the allowance for sales returns and markdowns as well as liabilities related to its gift cards and loyalty programs, which are included in accrued expenses. The Company also does not have significant contract acquisition costs related to its direct-to-consumer or wholesale distribution channels.
Sales Return Allowances
The Company accrues for estimated sales returns in the period in which the related revenue is recognized. To recognize the financial impact of sales returns, the Company estimates the amount of goods that will be returned based on historical experience and current trends and reduces sales and cost of sales accordingly. The Company’s policy allows retail customers in certain regions a grace period to return merchandise following the date of sale. Substantially all of these returns are considered to be resalable at a price that exceeds the cost of the merchandise. The Company includes the allowance for sales returns in accrued expenses and the estimated cost associated with such sales returns within other current assets in its consolidated balance sheet. As of January 30, 2021, the Company included $27.2 million in accrued expenses related to the allowance for sales returns and $10.0 million in other current assets related to the estimated cost of such sales returns. As of February 1, 2020, the Company included $33.2 million in accrued expenses related to the allowance for sales returns and $13.0 million in other current assets related to the estimated cost of such sales returns.
Markdown Allowances
Costs associated with customer markdowns are recorded as a reduction to revenues and any amounts unapplied to existing receivables are included in accrued expenses. Historically, these markdown allowances resulted from seasonal negotiations with the Company’s wholesale customers, as well as historical trends and the evaluation of the impact of current economic conditions. The Company included $16.2 million and $12.6 million
in accrued expenses related to the allowance for markdowns as of January 30, 2021 and February 1, 2020, respectively.
Gift Cards
Gift card breakage is income recognized due to the non-redemption of a portion of gift cards sold by the Company for which a liability was recorded in prior periods. Gifts cards are mainly used in the U.S. and Canada. The Company issues its gift cards in the U.S. and Canada through one of its subsidiaries and is not required by law to escheat the value of unredeemed gift cards to the state in which the subsidiary is domiciled. Estimated breakage amounts are accounted for under the redemption recognition method and are classified as additional net revenues as the gift cards are redeemed. The Company’s gift card breakage rate is approximately 7.0% and 6.3% for the U.S. retail business and Canadian retail business, respectively, based upon historical redemption patterns, which represents the cumulative estimated amount of gift card breakage from the inception of the electronic gift card program in late 2002. Based upon historical redemption trends, the Company recognizes estimated gift card breakage as a component of net revenue in proportion to actual gift card redemptions, over the period that remaining gift card values are redeemed. Any future revisions to the estimated breakage rate may result in changes in the amount of breakage income recognized in future periods. In fiscal 2021, fiscal 2020 and fiscal 2019, the Company recognized $0.4 million, $1.3 million and $0.7 million of gift card breakage to revenue, respectively. The Company included $4.5 million in accrued expenses related to its gift card liability for each of the fiscal years ended January 30, 2021 and February 1, 2020.
Loyalty Programs
The Company has customer loyalty programs in North America, Europe and Asia which cover all of its brands. Under certain of the programs, primarily in the U.S. and Canada, customers accumulate points based on purchase activity. Once a loyalty program member achieves a certain point level, the member earns awards that may only be redeemed for merchandise. Unredeemed points generally expire after six months without additional purchase activity and unredeemed awards generally expire after two months. Where applicable, the Company allocates a portion of the transaction price from sales in its direct-to-consumer channel to its loyalty program by using historical redemption rates to estimate the value of future award redemptions. This amount is accrued in current liabilities and recorded as a reduction of net revenue in the period which the related revenue is recognized. During fiscal 2021, fiscal 2020 and fiscal 2019, activity related to the Company’s loyalty programs increased (decreased) net revenue by $0.4 million, $(0.1) million and $(1.7) million, respectively. The aggregate dollar value of the loyalty program accruals included in accrued expenses was $5.4 million and $5.8 million as of January 30, 2021 and February 1, 2020, respectively. Future revisions to the estimated liability may result in changes to net revenue.
Intellectual Property Transferred Over Time
Intellectual Property Transferred Over Time
The Company’s trademark license agreements represent symbolic licenses that are dependent on the Company’s continued support over the term of the license agreement. The amount of revenue that is recognized from the licensing arrangements is based on sales-based royalty and advertising fund contributions as well as specific fixed payments, where applicable.
The typical license agreement requires that the licensee pay the Company the greater of a royalty based on a percentage of the licensee’s net sales of licensed products or a guaranteed annual minimum royalty that typically increases over the term of the license agreement. Generally, licensees are also required to make contributions to advertising funds, as a percentage of their sales, or may elect to increase their contribution to support specific brand-building initiatives. The Company recognizes revenue from sales-based royalty and advertising fund contributions when the related sales occur, which is consistent with the timing of when the performance obligation is satisfied. The Company records advertising contributions received from its licensees and the related advertising expenditures incurred by the Company on a gross basis in its consolidated statements of income (loss). The Company records royalty and advertising payments received on the Company’s purchases of licensed product as a reduction of the cost of the licensed product.
The Company’s trademark license agreements customarily provide for a multi-year initial term generally ranging from three to ten years, and may contain options to renew prior to expiration for an additional multi-year period. Several of the Company’s key license agreements provide for specified, fixed cash rights payments over and above our normal, ongoing royalty payments in consideration of the grant of the license rights. These payments are recognized ratably as revenue over the term of the license agreement and do not include a significant financing component. The unrecognized portion of upfront payments is included in deferred royalties in accrued expenses and other long-term liabilities depending on the short or long-term nature of the payments to be recognized. As of January 30, 2021, the Company had $6.6 million and $17.1 million of deferred royalties included in accrued expenses and other long-term liabilities, respectively. This compares to $6.7 million and $18.7 million of deferred royalties included in accrued expenses and other long-term liabilities, respectively, at February 1, 2020. In fiscal 2021, fiscal 2020 and fiscal 2019, the Company recognized $13.0 million, $12.3 million and $13.0 million in net royalties related to the amortization of the deferred royalties, respectively.
Contract balances related to the Company’s licensing distribution channel consist primarily of royalty receivables and liabilities related to deferred royalties. Refer to Note 3 for further information on royalty receivables. The Company does not have significant contract acquisition costs related to its licensing operations.
Classification Of Certain Costs And Expenses
Classification of Certain Costs and Expenses
The Company includes inbound freight charges, purchasing costs and related overhead, retail store occupancy costs, including lease costs and depreciation and amortization, and a portion of the Company’s distribution costs related to its direct-to-consumer business in cost of product sales. Distribution costs related primarily to the wholesale business are included in SG&A expenses and amounted to $51.0 million, $58.2 million and $55.7 million for fiscal 2021, fiscal 2020 and fiscal 2019, respectively. The Company also includes store selling, selling and merchandising, advertising, design and other corporate overhead costs as a component of SG&A expenses.
The Company classifies amounts billed to customers for shipping fees as revenues and classifies costs related to shipping as cost of product sales in the accompanying consolidated statements of income (loss).
Advertising and Marketing Costs
Advertising and Marketing Costs
The Company expenses the cost of advertising as incurred. Advertising and marketing expenses charged to operations for fiscal 2021, fiscal 2020 and fiscal 2019 were $39.0 million, $56.5 million and $56.8 million, respectively.
Share-Based Compensation
Share-Based Compensation
The Company recognizes compensation expense for all share-based awards granted based on the grant date fair value. The fair value of each stock option is estimated on the grant date using the Black-Scholes option-pricing model and involves several assumptions, including the risk-free interest rate, expected volatility, dividend yield and expected life. The risk-free interest rate is based on the U.S. Treasury yield curve in effect for the expected term of the option at the time of grant. The expected stock price volatility is determined based on an average of both historical volatility and implied volatility. Implied volatility is derived from exchange traded options on the Company’s common stock. The expected dividend yield is based on the Company’s history and expectations of dividend payouts. The expected life is determined based on historical trends. Compensation expense for nonvested stock options and stock awards/units that are not subject to performance-based vesting conditions is recognized on a straight-line basis over the vesting period. The Company has elected to account for forfeitures as they occur.
In addition, the Company has granted certain nonvested units that require certain minimum performance targets to be achieved in order for these awards to vest. Vesting is also subject to continued service requirements through the vesting date. Compensation expense for performance-based awards that vest in increments is recognized based on an accelerated attribution method. If the minimum performance targets are not forecasted to be achieved, no expense is recognized during the period.
The Company has also granted certain nonvested stock units which are subject to market-based performance targets in order for these units to vest. Vesting is also subject to continued service requirements through the vesting date. The grant date fair value for such nonvested stock units was estimated using a Monte Carlo simulation that incorporates option-pricing inputs covering the period from the grant date through the end of the performance period. Compensation expense for such nonvested stock units is recognized on a straight-line basis over the vesting period, regardless of whether the market condition is satisfied. Certain restricted stock units vest immediately but are considered contingently returnable as a result of certain service conditions. Compensation expense for these restricted stock units are recognized on a straight-line basis over the implied service period.
Foreign Currency
Foreign Currency
Foreign Currency Translation Adjustment
The local selling currency is typically the functional currency for all of the Company’s significant international operations. In accordance with authoritative guidance, assets and liabilities of the Company’s foreign operations are translated from foreign currencies into U.S. dollars at period-end rates, while income and expenses are translated at the weighted average exchange rates for the period. The related translation adjustments are reflected as a foreign currency translation adjustment in accumulated other comprehensive income (loss) within stockholders’ equity. In addition, the Company records foreign currency translation adjustments related to its noncontrolling interests within stockholders’ equity. Periodically, the Company may also use foreign exchange currency contracts to hedge the translation and economic exposures related to its net investments in certain of its international subsidiaries (see below). Changes in the fair values of these foreign exchange currency contracts, designated as net investment hedges, are recorded in foreign currency translation adjustment as a component of accumulated other comprehensive income (loss) within stockholders’ equity. The total foreign currency translation adjustment increased stockholders’ equity (including amounts attributable to nonredeemable noncontrolling interests) by $31.1 million, from an accumulated foreign currency translation loss of $141.1 million as of February 1, 2020 to an accumulated foreign currency translation loss of $110.0 million as of January 30, 2021.
Foreign Currency Transaction Gains and Losses
Transaction gains and losses that arise from exchange rate fluctuations on transactions denominated in a currency other than the functional currency, including gains and losses on foreign exchange currency contracts (see below), are included in the consolidated statements of income (loss). Net foreign currency transaction gains (losses) included in the determination of net earnings (loss) were $(1.7) million, $4.7 million and $(9.6) million for fiscal 2021, fiscal 2020 and fiscal 2019, respectively.
Derivatives
Derivatives
Foreign Exchange Currency Contracts
The Company operates in foreign countries, which exposes it to market risk associated with foreign currency exchange rate fluctuations. Various transactions that occur primarily in Europe, Canada, South Korea, China, Hong Kong, and Mexico are denominated in U.S. dollars, British pounds and Russian roubles and thus are exposed to earnings risk as a result of exchange rate fluctuations when converted to their functional currencies. These types of transactions include U.S. dollar-denominated purchases of merchandise and U.S. dollar- and British pound-denominated intercompany liabilities. In addition, certain operating expenses, tax liabilities and pension-related liabilities are denominated in Swiss francs and are exposed to earnings risk as a result of exchange rate fluctuations when converted to the functional currency. Further, there are certain real estate leases which are denominated in a currency other than the functional currency of the respective entity that entered into the agreement (primarily Swiss francs, Russian roubles and Polish zloty). As a result, the Company may be exposed to volatility related to unrealized gains or losses on the translation of present value of future lease payment obligations when translated at the exchange rate as of a reporting period-end. The Company has entered into certain forward exchange currency contracts to hedge the risk of a portion of these anticipated foreign currency transactions against foreign currency rate fluctuations. The Company has elected to apply the hedge accounting
rules in accordance with authoritative guidance for certain of these hedges. The Company does not hedge all transactions denominated in foreign currency. The Company may also hedge the translation and economic exposures related to its net investments in certain of its international subsidiaries.
Changes in the fair value of the U.S. dollar forward contracts for anticipated U.S. dollar merchandise purchases designated as cash flow hedges are recorded as a component of accumulated other comprehensive income (loss) within stockholders’ equity and are recognized in cost of product sales in the period which approximates the time the hedged merchandise inventory is sold. Changes in the fair value of any U.S. dollar forward contracts for U.S. dollar intercompany royalties designated as cash flow hedges are recorded as a component of accumulated other comprehensive income (loss) within stockholders’ equity and are recognized in other income (expense) in the period in which the royalty expense is incurred. Changes in the fair value of any U.S. dollar forward contracts designated as net investment hedges are recorded in foreign currency translation adjustment as a component of accumulated other comprehensive income (loss) within stockholders’ equity and are not recognized in earnings (loss) until the sale or liquidation of the hedged net investment.
The Company also has forward exchange currency contracts that are not designated as hedging instruments for accounting purposes. Changes in fair value of forward exchange currency contracts not designated as hedging instruments are reported in net earnings (loss) as part of other income (expense).
Interest Rate Swap Agreements
The Company is exposed to interest rate risk on its floating-rate debt. The Company has entered into interest rate swap agreements to effectively convert its floating-rate debt to a fixed-rate basis. The principal objective of these contracts is to eliminate or reduce the variability of the cash flows in interest payments associated with the Company’s floating-rate debt, thus reducing the impact of interest rate changes on future interest payment cash flows. The Company has elected to apply the hedge accounting rules in accordance with authoritative guidance for certain of these contracts. Changes in the fair value of interest rate swap agreements designated as cash flow hedges are recorded as a component of accumulated other comprehensive income (loss) within stockholders’ equity and are amortized to interest expense over the term of the related debt. Periodically, the Company may also enter into interest rate swap agreements that are not designated as hedging instruments for accounting purposes. Changes in the fair value of interest rate swap agreements not designated as hedging instruments are reported in net earnings (loss) as part of other income (expense).
Income Taxes
Income Taxes
The Company uses the asset and liability method of accounting for income taxes. Under this method, deferred income taxes are recognized for the future tax consequences attributable to differences between the financial statement carrying amounts of existing assets and liabilities and their respective tax bases. Deferred tax assets and liabilities are measured using enacted tax rates expected to be applied to taxable income in the years in which those temporary differences are expected to be recovered or settled. The effect on deferred taxes of a change in tax rates is recognized in income in the period that includes the enactment date. A valuation allowance is recorded when management believes it is more likely than not that the results of operations will not generate sufficient taxable earnings to realize certain net deferred tax assets.
The Company accounts for uncertainty in income taxes in accordance with authoritative guidance, which prescribes a recognition threshold and measurement attribute for the financial statement recognition and measurement of a tax position taken or expected to be taken in a tax return. The Company also follows authoritative guidance on derecognition, classification, interest and penalties, accounting in interim periods, disclosure and transition.
Earnings (Loss) Per Share
Earnings (Loss) Per Share
Basic earnings (loss) per share represents net earnings (loss) attributable to common stockholders divided by the weighted average number of common shares outstanding during the period. The Company considers any restricted stock units with forfeitable dividend rights that are issued and outstanding, but considered contingently returnable if certain service conditions are not met, as common equivalent shares outstanding. These restricted stock units are excluded from the weighted average number of common shares outstanding and basic earnings
(loss) per share calculation until the respective service conditions have been met. Diluted earnings per share represents net earnings attributable to common stockholders divided by the weighted average number of common shares outstanding, inclusive of the dilutive impact of common equivalent shares outstanding during the period, and the dilutive impact of the Company’s convertible senior notes and related warrants, as applicable.
The Company expects to settle the principal amount of its outstanding convertible senior notes in cash and any excess in shares. As a result, upon conversion of the convertible senior notes, only the amounts in excess of the principal amount are considered in diluted earnings per share under the treasury stock method, if applicable. Refer to Note 10 for further information on the Company’s convertible senior notes.
In periods when there is a net loss, the potentially dilutive impact of common equivalent shares outstanding is not included in the computation of diluted net loss per share as the impact of the shares would be antidilutive. Nonvested restricted stock awards (referred to as participating securities) are excluded from the dilutive impact of common equivalent shares outstanding in accordance with authoritative guidance under the two-class method since the nonvested restricted stockholders are entitled to participate in dividends declared on common stock as if the shares were fully vested and hence are deemed to be participating securities. Under the two-class method, distributed and undistributed earnings attributable to nonvested restricted stockholders are excluded from net earnings (loss) attributable to common stockholders for purposes of calculating basic and diluted earnings (loss) per common share. However, net losses are not allocated to nonvested restricted stockholders because they are not contractually obligated to share in the losses of the Company.
In addition, the Company has granted certain nonvested stock units that are subject to certain performance-based or market-based vesting conditions as well as continued service requirements through the respective vesting periods. These nonvested stock units are included in the computation of diluted net earnings per common share attributable to common stockholders only to the extent that the underlying performance-based or market-based vesting conditions are satisfied as of the end of the reporting period, or would be considered satisfied if the end of the reporting period were the end of the related contingency period, and the results would be dilutive under the treasury stock method.
Comprehensive Income (Loss)
Comprehensive Income (Loss)
Comprehensive income (loss) consists of net earnings (loss), foreign currency translation adjustments, the effective portion of the change in the fair value of cash flow hedges and defined benefit plan impact from actuarial valuation gains or losses and related amortization, plan amendment, prior service credit or cost amortization and curtailment. Comprehensive income (loss) is presented in the consolidated statements of comprehensive income (loss).
Cash, Cash Equivalents and Restricted Cash
Cash, Cash Equivalents and Restricted Cash
Cash and cash equivalents consist of cash on hand and marketable securities with original maturities of three months or less. The Company’s restricted cash is generally held as collateral for certain transactions.
Investment Securities
Investment Securities
Investments in equity securities with a readily determinable fair value, not accounted for under the equity-method or consolidation accounting, are recorded at fair value with unrealized gains and losses included in other income (expense) in the Company’s consolidated statements of income (loss). The Company also has an investment in a private equity fund. The Company uses net asset value per share as a practical expedient to measure the fair value of this investment.
Investments in equity securities are accounted for under the equity-method if the Company is able to exercise significant influence, but not control, over the investee. Equity method investments are included in other assets in the Company’s consolidated balance sheets and the Company’s proportionate share of earnings (loss) are recorded in other income (expense) in the Company’s consolidated statements of income (loss). The Company will periodically evaluate its equity-method investments for impairment and record such amounts in other (income) expense in the period that the carrying value of the investment before our share of earnings (loss) is determined to not be recoverable. During fiscal 2019, the Company invested $8.3 million in a privately-held
apparel company in exchange for a 30% minority interest. During fiscal 2021, the Company invested a net additional $2.3 million and increased its minority interest from 30% to 30.5%. The Company’s ownership in this company is accounted for under the equity method of accounting. Additionally, the Company purchased a 30% interest in a privately-held men’s footwear company for approximately $0.9 million during fiscal 2021. The Company’s ownership in this company is treated under the equity method of accounting. Refer to Note 14 for more information on this investment. The Company recognized its proportionate share of net losses of $4.7 million and $6.2 million in other income (expense) in its consolidated statements of income (loss) during fiscal 2021 and 2020, respectively.Currently, the Company does not have any debt security investments.
Concentration of Credit, Sourcing and Liquidity Risk
Concentrations of Credit, Sourcing and Liquidity Risk
Cash used primarily for working capital purposes is maintained with various major financial institutions. The Company performs evaluations of the relative credit standing of these financial institutions in order to limit the amount of asset and liquidity exposure with any institution. Excess cash and cash equivalents, which represent the majority of the Company’s outstanding cash and cash equivalents balance, are held primarily in overnight deposit and short-term time deposit accounts and money market accounts.
The Company is also exposed to concentrations of credit risk through its accounts receivable balances. The Company extends credit to wholesale customers based upon an evaluation of the customer’s financial condition and credit history and generally requires no collateral but does obtain credit insurance when considered appropriate. The Company’s two largest wholesale customers accounted for a total of approximately 3.4%, 2.7% and 2.4% of the Company’s consolidated net revenue in fiscal 2021, fiscal 2020 and fiscal 2019, respectively.
The majority of the Company’s finished goods are sourced from partners and suppliers located in over 30 countries outside the U.S. In fiscal 2021, over half of these products were sourced from partners and suppliers based in China. The Company’s two largest suppliers, which were the Company’s licensee partners, accounted for approximately 27%, 25% and 21% of the Company’s purchases of finished goods in fiscal 2021, fiscal 2020 and fiscal 2019, respectively.
Inventories InventoriesInventories are valued at the lower of cost (primarily weighted average method) or net realizable value. The Company continually evaluates its inventories by assessing slow moving product as well as prior seasons’ inventory. Net realizable value of aged inventory is estimated based on historical sales trends for each product line category, the impact of market trends, an evaluation of economic conditions, available liquidation channels and the value of current orders relating to the future sales of this type of inventory.
Depreciation and Amortization
Depreciation and Amortization
Depreciation and amortization of property and equipment are provided using the straight-line method over the following useful lives:
Building and building improvements
10 to 39 years
Furniture, fixtures and equipment
2 to 10 years
Leasehold improvements are capitalized at cost and amortized over the lesser of the estimated useful life of the asset or the term of the lease. Construction in progress is not depreciated until the related asset is completed and placed in service.
Leases
Leases
The Company determines whether an arrangement is a lease at inception of the agreement and reassesses that conclusion if the agreement is modified. The term of the Company’s leases represents the non-cancelable period of the lease, including any rent-free periods and any options to renew, extend or terminate the lease that the Company is reasonably certain to exercise. The Company determines the term of each lease at lease commencement and revisits that term in subsequent periods if a triggering event occurs which would require reassessment.
Leases with an initial contractual term in excess of 12 months are accounted for as either an operating or finance lease based on certain criteria. The Company has elected to recognize leases with an initial term of 12 months or less on a straight-line basis without recognizing a right-of-use (“ROU”) asset or operating lease liability.
The Company’s lease agreements primarily provide for lease payments based on a minimum annual rental amount, a percentage of annual sales volume, periodic adjustments related to inflation or a combination of such lease payments. Some of the lease agreements require the Company to make periodic payments for insurance, property taxes, sales promotion, common area maintenance and certain utility charges. The Company has elected the practical expedient to not separate non-lease components from lease components in the measurement of liabilities for its directly-operated real estate leases. Certain of our leases may also include lease incentives such as free rent periods or construction allowances. Lease liabilities are recognized at the present value of the fixed lease payments, reduced by landlord incentives, using the Company’s incremental borrowing rate (“IBR”). Due to our centralized treasury function, the Company uses a portfolio approach to discount our lease obligations. The IBR for each lease is based primarily on borrowing rates available to the Company, which incorporates publicly-available information for other companies within the same industry and with similar credit profiles. The rate is then adjusted for the impact from collateralization, the lease term, foreign currency (if applicable) and other specific terms included in the Company’s lease arrangements.
Lease ROU assets are recognized based on the initial present value of the fixed lease payments, reduced by landlord incentives, plus any direct costs from executing the leases which includes initial investments in the form of key money to secure prime store locations. Variable lease payments are expensed as incurred and do not factor into the measurement of the applicable lease liability or lease ROU asset. Lease ROU assets are amortized over the life of the lease and tested for impairment in the same manner as long-lived assets used in operations as described in more detail below.
As noted above during fiscal 2021, the Company has engaged in discussions with landlords in an effort to achieve appropriate rent relief and other lease concessions and, in some cases, to terminate existing leases in an effort to lessen the impact of reduced revenue resulting from temporary store closures and lower traffic as a result of the COVID-19 pandemic. Consistent with updated guidance from the FASB in April 2020, the Company has elected to treat any such agreed-upon payment deferrals related to the COVID-19 pandemic as if there were no modifications to the lease contract and has accrued such amounts within the current portion of operating lease liabilities in the Company’s consolidated balance sheet. The Company has elected to treat other rent concessions which result in reduced lease payments as variable lease payments if the concessions that are provided are for a period of generally less than 12 months. For any rent concessions which reduce the lease payments for a period of generally more than 12 months or change the payment terms from minimum rental amounts to amounts based on a percentage of sales volume for the remainder of the lease term, the Company has elected to treat such changes as lease modifications under the current lease guidance.
Long-Lived Assets
Long-Lived Assets
Long-lived assets, such as property and equipment and operating lease ROU assets are reviewed for impairment quarterly or whenever events or changes in circumstances indicate that the carrying amount of an asset may not be recoverable. The majority of the Company’s long-lived assets relate to its retail operations which consist primarily of regular retail and flagship locations. The Company considers each individual regular retail location as an asset group for impairment testing, which is the lowest level at which individual cash flows can be identified. The asset group includes leasehold improvements, furniture, fixtures and equipment, computer hardware and software, operating lease ROU assets including lease acquisition costs, and certain long-term security deposits, and excludes operating lease liabilities. The Company reviews regular retail locations in penetrated markets for impairment risk once the locations have been opened for at least one year in their current
condition, or sooner as changes in circumstances require. The Company believes that waiting at least one year allows a location to reach a maturity level where a more comprehensive analysis of financial performance can be performed. The Company evaluates impairment risk for regular retail locations in new markets, where the Company is in the early stages of establishing its presence, once brand awareness has been established. The Company also evaluates impairment risk for retail locations that are expected to be closed in the foreseeable future. The Company has flagship locations which are used as a regional marketing tool to build brand awareness and promote the Company’s current product. Provided the flagship locations continue to meet appropriate criteria, impairment for these locations is tested at a reporting unit level similar to goodwill since they do not have separately identifiable cash flows.
An asset is considered to be impaired if the Company determines that the carrying value may not be recoverable based upon its assessment of the asset’s ability to continue to generate earnings from operations and positive cash flow in future periods or if significant changes in the Company’s strategic business objectives and utilization of the assets occurred. If the carrying amount of an asset exceeds its estimated undiscounted future cash flows adjusted for lease payments, an impairment charge is recognized in the amount by which the carrying amount of the asset exceeds the estimated fair value. The Company uses estimates of market participant rents to calculate fair value of ROU assets and discounted future cash flows of the asset group to quantify fair value for other long-lived assets. These nonrecurring fair value measurements are considered Level 3 inputs as defined in Note 21. The impairment loss calculations require management to apply judgment estimating market participant rents, future cash flows, among other things, and the discount rates that reflect the risk inherent in future cash flows. Future expected cash flows for assets in regular retail locations are based on management’s estimates of future cash flows, which include sales and gross margin growth rate assumptions, over the remaining lease period or expected life, if shorter. For expected location closures, the Company will evaluate whether it is necessary to shorten the useful life for any of the assets within the respective asset group. The Company will use this revised useful life when estimating the asset group’s future cash flows. The Company considers historical trends, expected future business trends and other factors when estimating the future cash flow for each regular retail location. The Company also considers factors such as: the local environment for each regular retail location, including mall traffic and competition; the Company’s ability to successfully implement strategic initiatives; and the ability to control variable costs such as cost of sales and payroll and, in some cases, renegotiate lease costs. As discussed further above, the COVID-19 pandemic has materially impacted the Company’s financial results during fiscal 2021 and could continue to impact the Company’s operations in ways the Company is not able to predict today due to the evolving situation. The Company has made reasonable assumptions and judgments to determine the fair value of the assets tested based on the facts and circumstances that were available as of the reporting date. If actual results are not consistent with the assumptions and judgments used in estimating future cash flows and asset fair values, there may be additional exposure to future impairment losses that could be material to the Company’s results of operations.
Goodwill
Goodwill
Goodwill is tested annually for impairment or more frequently if events and circumstances indicate that the asset might be impaired. An impairment loss is recognized to the extent that the carrying amount exceeds the asset’s fair value. This determination is made at the reporting unit level which may be either an operating segment or one level below an operating segment if discrete financial information is available. Two or more reporting units within an operating segment may be aggregated for impairment testing if they have similar economic characteristics. The Company has identified its Americas Retail segment, its Americas Wholesale segment and its European wholesale and European retail components of its Europe segment as reporting units for goodwill impairment testing. Goodwill associated with its China retail component of its Asia segment was fully impaired during fiscal 2020. In accordance with authoritative guidance, the Company may first assess qualitative factors relevant in determining whether it is more likely than not that the fair values of its reporting units are less than their carrying amounts. Based on this analysis, the Company may determine whether it is necessary to perform a quantitative impairment test. If it is more likely than not that the fair value of a reporting unit is less than its
carrying amount, the amount of any impairment loss to be recognized for that reporting unit is determined using two steps. First, the Company determines the fair value of the reporting unit using a discounted cash flow analysis, which requires unobservable inputs (Level 3) within the fair value hierarchy as defined in Note 21. These inputs include selection of an appropriate discount rate and the amount and timing of expected future cash flows. Second, if the carrying amount of a reporting unit exceeds its fair value, an impairment loss is recognized based on the difference between a reporting unit’s fair value and its carrying value.
Other Assets Other AssetsOther assets mainly relate to the Company’s investments in insurance policies held in rabbi trusts to fund expected obligations arising under its non-qualified supplemental executive retirement and deferred compensation plans. Refer to Notes 13 and 16 for further information regarding these investments. In addition, other assets also relate to long-term security deposits and receivables related to refundable value-added tax payments mainly from European taxing authorities.
Defined Benefit Plans
Defined Benefit Plans
In accordance with authoritative guidance for defined benefit pension and other postretirement plans, an asset for a plan’s over funded status or a liability for a plan’s underfunded status is recognized in the consolidated balance sheets; plan assets and obligations that determine the plan’s funded status are measured as of the end of the Company’s fiscal year; and changes in the funded status of defined benefit postretirement plans are recognized in the year in which they occur. Such changes are reported in other comprehensive income (loss) as a separate component of stockholders’ equity.
The Company’s pension obligations and related costs are calculated using actuarial concepts, within the authoritative guidance framework, and are considered Level 3 inputs as defined in Note 21. The Company uses the corridor approach to amortize unrecognized actuarial gains or losses over the average remaining service life of active participants. The life expectancy, estimated retirement age, discount rate, estimated future compensation and expected return on plan assets are important elements of expense and/or liability measurement. These critical assumptions are evaluated annually which enables expected future payments for benefits to be stated at present value on the measurement date. If actual results are not consistent with actuarial assumptions, the amounts recognized for the defined benefit plans could change significantly.
Litigation Reserves Litigation ReservesEstimated amounts for claims that are probable and can be reasonably estimated are recorded as liabilities in the consolidated balance sheets. As additional information becomes available, the Company assesses the potential liability related to new claims and existing claims and revises estimates as appropriate. As new claims arise or existing claims evolve, such revisions in estimates of the potential liability could materially impact the results of operations and financial position.
Convertible Senior Notes
Convertible Senior Notes
In April 2019, the Company issued $300 million principal amount of 2.00% convertible senior notes due 2024 (the “Notes”) in a private offering. Under GAAP, certain convertible debt instruments that may be settled in cash on conversion are required to be separately accounted for as liability and equity components of the instrument in a manner that reflects the issuer’s non-convertible debt borrowing rate. Accordingly, in accounting for the issuance of the Notes, the Company separated the Notes into liability and equity components. The liability component was recorded at fair value, which was derived from a valuation technique used to calculate the fair value of a similar liability without an associated convertible feature. The carrying amount of the equity component, which is recognized as a debt discount, represents the difference between the proceeds from the issuance of the Notes and the fair value of the liability component of the Notes.
In accounting for the debt issuance costs related to the issuance of the Notes, the Company allocated the total amount incurred to the liability and equity components based on their relative values. Debt issuance costs
attributable to the liability component were recorded as a contra-liability and are presented net against the convertible senior notes balance on the Company’s consolidated balance sheets. These costs are amortized to interest expense using the effective interest method over the term of the Notes.
New Accounting Guidance
Recently Adopted Accounting Guidance
In June 2016, the FASB issued authoritative guidance related to the measurement of credit losses on financial instruments. This guidance replaces the “as incurred” loss model with an “expected loss” model which requires the recognition of an allowance for credit losses expected to be incurred over an asset’s lifetime. The measurement of expected credit losses is based on relevant information about past events, current conditions and reasonable and supportable forecasts impacting the collectability of the reported amounts. This guidance was adopted as of February 2, 2020 on a modified retrospective basis and did not have a material impact on the Company’s consolidated financial statements or related disclosures.
In August 2018, the FASB issued authoritative guidance to modify the disclosure requirements on fair value measurements. This guidance was adopted as of February 2, 2020 on a prospective basis and did not have a material impact on the Company’s related disclosures.
In August 2018, the FASB issued authoritative guidance to modify the disclosure requirements for employers that sponsor defined benefit pension or other postretirement plans. This guidance was adopted as of February 2, 2020 and did not have a material impact on the Company’s financial statement disclosures.
In August 2018, the FASB issued authoritative guidance to align the requirements for capitalizing implementation costs incurred in a hosting arrangement that is a service contract with the requirements for capitalizing implementation costs incurred to develop or obtain internal-use software (and hosting arrangements that include an internal-use software license). The Company adopted this guidance as of February 2, 2020 on a prospective basis. Prior to the adoption of this guidance, the Company capitalized implementation costs related to a hosting arrangement that is a service contract to property and equipment, net in the Company’s consolidated balance sheets and included such expenditures within the investing section of the Company’s consolidated statements of cash flows. These assets were amortized over their estimated useful life with the related amortization included in depreciation and amortization in either cost of product sales or SG&A expenses in the Company’s consolidated statements of income (loss) depending on the nature of how the assets were used. Subsequent to the adoption of this guidance, these costs are included within other current assets or other assets in the Company’s consolidated balance sheets depending on the short or long-term nature of the underlying hosting agreement with such expenditures included in the operating section of the Company’s consolidated statements of cash flows. These assets are now amortized over the shorter of the estimated useful life or the term of the underlying hosting agreement, including any probable renewal periods, with the related amortization included in
cost of product sales or SG&A expenses in the Company’s consolidated statements of income (loss), consistent with the presentation of the expense related to the underlying hosting arrangement. The adoption of this guidance, including the different classification requirements for the implementation costs, did not have a material impact on the Company’s consolidated financial statements or the related disclosures.
In December 2019, the FASB issued authoritative guidance that simplifies the accounting for income taxes by eliminating certain exceptions to general principles related to intraperiod tax allocations, ownership changes in foreign investments and calculating income taxes in an interim period when year-to-date losses exceed total anticipated losses. The new guidance also simplifies the accounting for income taxes related to franchise taxes that are partially based on income, the step up in the tax basis of goodwill, allocation of current and deferred tax expense for certain legal entities and enacted changes in tax laws or rates during interim periods, among other improvements. This guidance was adopted during the second quarter of fiscal 2021 on a prospective basis and did not have a material impact on the Company’s consolidated financial statements or related disclosures.
Recently Issued Accounting Guidance
In March 2020, the FASB issued authoritative guidance to provide temporary optional expedients and exceptions related to contract modifications and hedge accounting to ease the financial reporting burdens of the expected market transition from LIBOR and other interbank offered rates to alternative reference rates, such as SOFR. This guidance may be adopted as of March 12, 2020 through December 31, 2022. This temporary relief cannot be applied to contract modifications after December 31, 2022. The Company is currently evaluating its election options and the impact on its consolidated financial statements and related disclosures.
In August 2020, the FASB issued authoritative guidance to simplify the accounting for convertible instruments and contracts in an entity’s own equity and the diluted earnings per share computations for these instruments. This guidance removes major separation models required under current guidance which will enable more convertible debt instruments to be reported as a single liability instrument with no separate accounting for embedded conversion features. This guidance also removes certain settlement conditions that are required for equity contracts to qualify for the derivative scope exception. The new guidance also requires the “if -converted” method to be applied for all convertible instruments (the treasury stock method is no longer available) and removes the ability to rebut the presumption of share settlement for contracts that may be settled in cash or stock. In addition, expanded disclosures are required on the terms and features of convertible instruments. This guidance is effective for fiscal years beginning after December 31, 2021, which will be the Company’s first quarter of fiscal 2023, on either a full or modified retrospective basis. Early adoption is permitted for fiscal years beginning after December 31, 2020, which will be the Company’s first quarter of fiscal 2022. The Company is currently evaluating the impact of the adoption of this guidance on its consolidated financial statements and related disclosures.