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GOODWILL AND OTHER INTANGIBLE ASSETS
12 Months Ended
Dec. 31, 2013
GOODWILL AND OTHER INTANGIBLE ASSETS [Abstract]  
GOODWILL AND OTHER INTANGIBLE ASSETS
GOODWILL AND OTHER INTANGIBLE ASSETS

Goodwill represents the excess of the purchase price and related costs over the value assigned to net tangible and identifiable intangible assets of businesses acquired and accounted for under the purchase method.  Accounting rules require that we test at least annually for possible goodwill impairment.  We perform our test in the fourth fiscal quarter of each year using a discounted cash flow analysis that requires that certain assumptions and estimates be made regarding industry economic factors and future profitability and cash flows.  We test goodwill at the segment level where acquired businesses have been fully integrated into our existing structure and at one level below the segment level where acquired businesses have not been fully integrated.  As a result of the 2012 impairment analysis, we determined that the goodwill balance existing in our international retail segment was impaired as a result of decreases in projected revenues and profitability for our Kurt Geiger retail business resulting from economic conditions in Europe.  Accordingly, we recorded an impairment charge of $47.6 million.  As a result of the 2013 impairment analysis, we determined that the goodwill balance existing in our domestic wholesale sportswear segment and the goodwill in our domestic wholesale footwear and accessories segment related to our Brian Atwood business were impaired as a result of decreases in projected revenues and profitability.  Accordingly, we recorded an impairment charge of $49.9 million.

The following table presents, by segment and in total, changes in the carrying amount of goodwill for 2012 and 2013.

(In millions)
 
Domestic Wholesale Sportswear
  
Domestic Wholesale Jeanswear
  
Domestic Wholesale Footwear & Accessories
  
Domestic Retail
  
International Wholesale
  
International Retail
  
Total
 
 
Balance, January 1, 2012
 
  
  
  
  
  
  
 
Goodwill
 
$
46.7
  
$
519.2
  
$
859.8
  
$
120.6
  
$
111.6
  
$
50.4
  
$
1,708.3
 
Accumulated impairment losses
  
-
   
(519.2
)
  
(813.2
)
  
(120.6
)
  
-
   
-
   
(1,453.0
)
Net goodwill
  
46.7
   
-
   
46.6
   
-
   
111.6
   
50.4
   
255.3
 
Acquisition of Brian Atwood
  
-
   
-
   
3.2
   
-
   
-
   
-
   
3.2
 
Impairment
  
-
   
-
   
-
   
-
   
-
   
(47.6
)
  
(47.6
)
Foreign currency translation effects
  
-
   
-
   
-
   
-
   
1.9
   
2.5
   
4.4
 
 
Balance, December 31, 2012
                            
Goodwill
  
46.7
   
519.2
   
863.0
   
120.6
   
113.5
   
52.7
   
1,715.7
 
Accumulated impairment losses
  
-
   
(519.2
)
  
(813.2
)
  
(120.6
)
  
-
   
(47.4
)
  
(1,500.4
)
Net goodwill
  
46.7
   
-
   
49.8
   
-
   
113.5
   
5.3
   
215.3
 
Impairment
  
(46.7
)
  
-
   
(3.2
)
  
-
   
-
   
-
   
(49.9
)
Foreign currency translation effects
  
-
   
-
   
-
   
-
   
1.0
   
-
   
1.0
 
 
Balance, December 31, 2013
                            
Goodwill
  
46.7
   
519.2
   
863.0
   
120.6
   
114.5
   
53.7
   
1,717.7
 
Accumulated impairment losses
  
(46.7
)
  
(519.2
)
  
(816.4
)
  
(120.6
)
  
-
   
(48.4
)
  
(1,551.3
)
Net goodwill
 
$
-
  
$
-
  
$
46.6
  
$
-
  
$
114.5
  
$
5.3
  
$
166.4
 

We also perform our annual impairment test for indefinite-lived trademarks during the fourth fiscal quarter of the year.  As a result of these analyses, we recorded trademark impairment charges of $7.2 million, $21.5 million and $31.5 million for 2013, 2012 and 2011, respectively, as a result of decreases in projected revenues for certain brands.  All trademark impairment charges for 2013 and 2011 are reported as SG&A expenses in the licensing and other segment.  The charge for 2012 was recorded as a $21.4 million SG&A expense in the licensing and other segment and a $0.1 million SG&A expense in the international retail segment.  In 2012, we also determined that the acquired customer relationship intangible asset from the acquisition of Kurt Geiger was impaired due to decreases in projected wholesale revenues, and we recorded a $5.6 million impairment charge.  This impairment charge is reported as an SG&A expense in the international wholesale segment.

The components of other intangible assets are as follows:

December 31,
 
2013
  
2012
 
(In millions)
 
Gross
Carrying Amount
  
Accumulated Amortization
  
Gross
Carrying Amount
  
Accumulated Amortization
 
 
Amortized intangible assets
 
  
  
  
 
Customer relationships
 
$
154.2
  
$
34.8
  
$
151.6
  
$
24.4
 
License agreements
  
61.7
   
56.0
   
61.4
   
54.5
 
Trademarks
  
24.5
   
11.4
   
24.5
   
4.9
 
Acquired favorable leases
  
13.4
   
4.9
   
13.1
   
3.5
 
Covenants not to compete
  
3.8
   
2.9
   
3.8
   
2.1
 
 
  
257.6
   
110.0
   
254.4
   
89.4
 
Indefinite-life trademarks
  
704.8
   
-
   
704.7
   
-
 
 
 
$
962.4
  
$
110.0
  
$
959.1
  
$
89.4
 

Amortization expense for intangible assets subject to amortization was $14.4 million, $16.8 million and $14.8 million for 2013, 2012 and 2011, respectively.  Amortization expense for intangible assets subject to amortization for each of the years in the five-year period ending December 31, 2018 is estimated to be $14.9 million in 2014, $13.5 million in 2015, $13.2 million in 2016, $12.9 million in 2017 and $11.2 million in 2018.

The cash flow models we use to estimate the fair values of our goodwill and trademarks involve several assumptions.  Changes in these assumptions could materially impact our fair value estimates.  Assumptions critical to our fair value estimates are: (i) discount rates used to derive the present value factors used in determining the fair value of the reporting units and trademarks; (ii) royalty rates used in our trademark valuations; (iii) projected revenue growth rates; and (iv) projected long-term growth rates used in the derivation of terminal year values.  These and other assumptions are impacted by economic conditions and expectations of management and may change in the future based on period-specific facts and circumstances.  The following table shows the assumptions we used to derive our fair value estimates as part of our annual impairment testing for 2013 and 2012.
 
 
2013
 
2012
 
Goodwill
Trademarks
 
Goodwill
Trademarks
Discount rates
12.0%
12.0%
 
12.0%
12.0%
Royalty rates
--
1.0% - 8.0%
 
--
1.0% - 8.0%
Weighted-average revenue growth rates
4.7%
6.5%
 
5.4%
6.2%
Long-term growth rates
3.0%
0% - 3.0%
 
3.0%
0% - 3.0%

While the fair value of each operating segment at December 31, 2013 significantly exceeded the segment's carrying value, should economic conditions and trends (such as reduced consumer spending or the failure to achieve projected results) deteriorate throughout 2014 and beyond, especially in the United Kingdom and Europe, the carrying values of trademarks and goodwill could become further impaired.