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GOODWILL AND OTHER INTANGIBLE ASSETS
12 Months Ended
Dec. 31, 2012
GOODWILL AND OTHER INTANGIBLE ASSETS [Abstract]  
GOODWILL AND OTHER INTANGIBLE ASSETS
GOODWILL AND OTHER INTANGIBLE ASSETS

Goodwill represents the excess of the purchase price and related costs over the value assigned to net tangible and identifiable intangible assets of businesses acquired and accounted for under the purchase method.  Accounting rules require that we test at least annually for possible goodwill impairment.  We perform our test in the fourth fiscal quarter of each year using a discounted cash flow analysis that requires that certain assumptions and estimates be made regarding industry economic factors and future profitability and cash flows.  We test goodwill at the segment level where acquired businesses have been fully integrated into our existing structure and at one level below the segment level where acquired businesses have not been fully integrated.  As a result of the 2012 impairment analysis, we determined that the goodwill balance existing in our international retail segment was impaired as a result of decreases in projected revenues and profitability for our Kurt Geiger retail business resulting from economic conditions in Europe.  Accordingly, we recorded an impairment charge of $47.6 million.

The following table presents, by segment and in total, changes in the carrying amount of goodwill for 2011 and 2012.


(In millions)
 
Domestic Wholesale Sportswear
 
 
Domestic Wholesale Jeanswear
 
 
Domestic Wholesale Footwear & Accessories
 
 
Domestic Retail
 
 
International Wholesale
 
 
International Retail
 
 
Total
 
 
Balance, January 1, 2011
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Goodwill
 
$
46.7
 
 
$
519.2
 
 
$
859.8
 
 
$
120.6
 
 
$
68.5
 
 
$
-
 
 
$
1,614.8
 
Accumulated impairment losses
 
 
-
 
 
 
(519.2
)
 
 
(813.2
)
 
 
(120.6
)
 
 
-
 
 
 
-
 
 
 
(1,453.0
)
Net goodwill
 
 
46.7
 
 
 
-
 
 
 
46.6
 
 
 
-
 
 
 
68.5
 
 
 
-
 
 
 
161.8
 
Acquisition of Kurt Geiger
 
 
-
 
 
 
-
 
 
 
-
 
 
 
-
 
 
 
45.8
 
 
 
53.5
 
 
 
99.3
 
Foreign currency translation effects
 
 
-
 
 
 
-
 
 
 
-
 
 
 
-
 
 
 
(2.7
)
 
 
(3.1
)
 
 
(5.8
)
 
Balance, December 31, 2011
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Goodwill
 
 
46.7
 
 
 
519.2
 
 
 
859.8
 
 
 
120.6
 
 
 
111.6
 
 
 
50.4
 
 
 
1,708.3
 
Accumulated impairment losses
 
 
-
 
 
 
(519.2
)
 
 
(813.2
)
 
 
(120.6
)
 
 
-
 
 
 
-
 
 
 
(1,453.0
)
Net goodwill
 
 
46.7
 
 
 
-
 
 
 
46.6
 
 
 
-
 
 
 
111.6
 
 
 
50.4
 
 
 
255.3
 
Acquisition of Brian Atwood
 
 
-
 
 
 
-
 
 
 
3.2
 
 
 
-
 
 
 
-
 
 
 
-
 
 
 
3.2
 
Impairment
 
 
-
 
 
 
-
 
 
 
-
 
 
 
-
 
 
 
-
 
 
 
(47.6
)
 
 
(47.6
)
Foreign currency translation effects
 
 
-
 
 
 
-
 
 
 
-
 
 
 
-
 
 
 
1.9
 
 
 
2.5
 
 
 
4.4
 
 
Balance, December 31, 2012
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Goodwill
 
 
46.7
 
 
 
519.2
 
 
 
863.0
 
 
 
120.6
 
 
 
113.5
 
 
 
52.7
 
 
 
1,715.7
 
Accumulated impairment losses
 
 
-
 
 
 
(519.2
)
 
 
(813.2
)
 
 
(120.6
)
 
 
-
 
 
 
(47.4
)
 
 
(1,500.4
)
Net goodwill
 
$
46.7
 
 
$
-
 
 
$
49.8
 
 
$
-
 
 
$
113.5
 
 
$
5.3
 
 
$
215.3
 

We also perform our annual impairment test for indefinite-lived trademarks during the fourth fiscal quarter of the year.  As a result of these analyses, we recorded trademark impairment charges of $21.5 million, $31.5 million and $37.6 million for 2012, 2011 and 2010, respectively, as a result of decreases in projected revenues for certain brands.  All trademark impairment charges for 2010 and 2011 are reported as SG&A expenses in the licensing, other and eliminations segment.  The charge for 2012 was recorded as a $21.4 million SG&A expense in the licensing, other and eliminations segment and a $0.1 million SG&A expense in the international retail segment.  We also determined that the acquired customer relationship intangible asset from the acquisition of Kurt Geiger was impaired due to decreases in projected wholesale revenues, and we recorded a $5.6 million impairment charge.  This impairment charge is reported as an SG&A expense in the international wholesale segment.

The components of other intangible assets are as follows:

December 31,
2012
2011
(In millions)
Gross
Carrying Amount
Accumulated Amortization
Gross
Carrying Amount
Accumulated Amortization
 
Amortized intangible assets
Customer relationships
$
151.6
$
24.4
$
146.3
$
8.3
License agreements
61.4
54.5
61.4
52.4
Trademarks
24.5
4.9
17.1
1.6
Acquired favorable leases
13.1
3.5
12.8
2.0
Covenants not to compete
3.8
2.1
3.8
1.4
Acquired order backlog
-
-
2.6
2.6
 
254.4
89.4
244.0
68.3
Indefinite-life trademarks
704.7
-
721.7
-
 
$
959.1
$
89.4
$
965.7
$
68.3

Amortization expense for intangible assets subject to amortization was $16.8 million, $14.8 million and $18.1 million for 2012, 2011 and 2010, respectively.  Amortization expense for intangible assets subject to amortization for each of the years in the five-year period ending December 31, 2017 is estimated to be $14.2 million in 2013, $14.6 million in 2014, $13.3 million in 2015, $13.0 million in 2016 and $12.7 million in 2017.

The cash flow models we use to estimate the fair values of our goodwill and trademarks involve several assumptions.  Changes in these assumptions could materially impact our fair value estimates.  Assumptions critical to our fair value estimates are: (i) discount rates used to derive the present value factors used in determining the fair value of the reporting units and trademarks; (ii) royalty rates used in our trademark valuations; (iii) projected revenue growth rates; and (iv) projected long-term growth rates used in the derivation of terminal year values.  These and other assumptions are impacted by economic conditions and expectations of management and may change in the future based on period-specific facts and circumstances.  The following table shows the assumptions we used to derive our fair value estimates as part of our annual impairment testing for 2012 and 2011.

 
2012
2011
 
Goodwill
Trademarks
Goodwill
Trademarks
Discount rates
12.0
%
12.0
%
11.0
%
11.0
%
Royalty rates
--
1.0% - 8.0
%
--
4.0% - 8.0
%
Weighted-average revenue growth rates
5.4
%
6.2
%
10.6
%
5.6
%
Long-term growth rates
3.0
%
0% - 3.0
%
3.0
%
0% - 3.0
%

While the fair value of each operating segment at December 31, 2012 significantly exceeded the segment's carrying value, should economic conditions and trends (such as reduced consumer spending or the failure to achieve projected results) deteriorate throughout 2013 and beyond, especially in the United Kingdom and Europe, the carrying values of trademarks and goodwill could become further impaired.